Tiene más población que la mitad de los municipios salvadoreños y apenas una escuela donde se enseña hasta octavo grado. Terminado el octavo grado, los jóvenes -pandilleros o no pandilleros- dejan de estudiar o se juegan la vida y van afuera, donde la muerte les sigue como sombra solo por el hecho de vivir en La Campa.
Roberto Valencia/Fotos: Frederick Meza y Roberto Valencia. 22 de Junio. Tomado de El Faro.
Una casa abandona sirve como espacio de juego para estas dos niñas.
Hay quien cree que los asesinados sienten. El alma, dicen, se aferra al cuerpo hasta que lo entierran, y en esas horas hasta la sepultura, la presencia cercana de amigos y familiares sirve para que Lucifer no se lleve el espíritu. Solo funciona si no ha transcurrido mucho tiempo. Si el cadáver estuvo pudriéndose varios días en una zanja o un cafetal, el demonio ya hizo lo suyo, y en el velorio no hay nada que resguardar. Pero esos casos son los menos. Lo habitual es que alma y cuerpo estén juntos dentro del ataúd. Por eso a veces los sobresaltos. Dicen que el asesinado siente cuando el asesino está en el velorio, y su cuerpo sangra por algún orificio –nariz, orejas, boca– un líquido a veces rojo, a veces amarillento.
La joven Marta es de las que cree. Lo escuchó desde siempre en su hogar, y lo vivió cuando le asesinaron a un pretendiente llamado Édgar. Lo mataron un día después de haberle negado un beso. Marta no fue al velorio, pero sí al entierro. Antes de sepultarlo, abrieron la caja, y cuando se asomó, vio cómo Édgar le agradeció su presencia relajando su ceño fruncido y esbozando una leve sonrisa. Ese asesinato transformó en verdad inamovible lo que hasta entonces era nomás creencia. Hubo antes y después más muerte en la vida de Marta, pero fue aquella tarde cuando se convenció de que los asesinados sienten.
Y triste pero convencida regresó a su pequeña casa, en el reparto La Campanera.***
Aquí se rodó La vida loca, el documental sobre pandilleros que le costó la vida a su director, Christian Poveda. Es cierto que el reparto La Campanera tenía mala prensa desde antes y que su elección no fue casual, pero el estreno de la película –y el efecto amplificador del asesinato– resultó como echar sal sobre una llaga. La Campanera está hoy asociada a las maras como Roswell a los ovnis o Cannes al cine. En el imaginario colectivo decir La Campanera es decir violencia. Sin matices. Y esto ocurre en El Salvador, un país del que el Departamento de Estado gringo dice que tiene una de las tasas de homicidios más elevadas del mundo, un país sobre el que el gobierno español aconseja no subirse a los buses. Seguramente haya ciudades finlandesas, australianas o argentinas que tengan barrios con aura de conflictivos, siempre los hay, pero La Campanera tiene esa etiqueta en El Salvador. No pocos salvadoreños cuestionaron mi cordura al saber de mis visitas para escribir este relato.
Con unos 250 mil habitantes, Soyapango es la tercera ciudad más poblada del país. Está anexada a la capital, San Salvador, al punto que cuesta saber cuándo se sale de una y se ingresa en la otra. En la zona norte del municipio está el cantón El Limón, y dentro de ese cantón, La Campanera. Es una colonia joven, que aún no cumple los 20 años, y que casi desde su fundación tuvo presencia de la pandilla Barrio 18. En La Campanera vivió Ernesto Mojica Lechuga, "el Viejo Lin", al que la Policía llegó a considerar como el dieciochero que llevaba la palabra para todo el país.
Extorsión, asesinato, miedo, granadas o desmembramientos son palabras que han acompañado la cobertura mediática sobre esta colonia durante la última década. Pero cuando uno cierra los ojos, en La Campanera se escuchan los mismos sonidos que en cualquier otro lugar: la campanilla del paletero, el crujido metálico de los tambos de gas al chocar, autobuses en ralentí, el chirrido de un columpio sin engrasar...
La Campanera son más de 2 mil 100 casas, y su población ronda los 10 mil habitantes. La mitad de los alcaldes del país gobiernan municipios con menos gente. La estructura de la colonia es simple: una carretera de 600 metros de longitud recta y amplia, y decenas de pasajes peatonales largos y estrechos que salen a un lado y otro desde la calle principal hasta los confines. Vista desde el aire parece una gigantesca espina de pescado sin cola ni cabeza. Al fondo están la escuela y el punto de buses de las rutas 49 y 41-D. Más al fondo, la cancha de fútbol. Después, cerros, la nada.
La primera vez que entré fue el 13 de septiembre de 2009, apenas cuatro días después de haber despedido a Poveda en su misa-funeral. Aún no estaba militarizada. Cuando la atravesé, lo hice con la grabadora encendida, para registrar primeras impresiones: "Bueno, ya estamos en La Campanera. Hay iglesias evangélicas. Tienditas. Gente sentada en bancas rojas, todo se ve rojo, parece que el Frente está fuerte. Tiendas. La bajada es pronunciada. Un camión de agua Cristal. Imágenes del Che y de Martí. Casitas de bloque. Grandes túmulos. Otra pintada, esta vez del Che Guevara con monseñor Romero. Otra iglesia evangélica. Tiendas con rejas. Grandes pintadas del Barrio 18. Pares de tenis colgados".
La verdad es que no se ve tan fea, resumí en mi libreta. Apenas ha cambiado nada desde entonces.La mayoría de las casas son de bloque y tejas, con agua potable, luz y teléfono. Dignas, si se tiene en cuenta la situación del país. Hay servicio de recolección de basura, e incluso cuenta con una planta de tratamiento de aguas negras. Y quien se lo puede permitir dispone de televisión por cable o internet. La colonia, sin embargo, aparece citada en el Mapa de Pobreza Urbana que este año presentó el Programa de Naciones Unidas para el Desarrollo. En La Campanera, en efecto, hay pobres y muy pobres, pero lo que la singulariza es el estigma, la exclusión. Siempre ha estado en boca de todos, y casi nunca por razones positivas.
—Ni siquiera los salvadoreños quieren entrar en esta colonia –me dirá un día de estos Alba Dinora Flores, una maestra de la escuela.
Un soldado pasa frente una casa en venta en la Campanera. En esta comunidad, un buen porcentaje de casas está en abandono.
***
Tarde del 19 de mayo, miércoles.
Pregunto a Alba Dinora por los robos en la escuela, se toma unos segundos para escarbar en su memoria, pero nada. Nunca nadie ha entrado a robar en los siete años que lleva asignada al centro, a pesar de que nadie cuida en la noche, y de adentro hay abundante comida –frijol, leche en polvo, arroz, bebidas fortificadas– y hasta un lote de computadoras donadas que no se utilizan porque no hay dónde.—Los muchachos no es que sean santos –me responde Alba Dinora–, pero ellos cuidan, cuidan su gente, su casa, su colonia, todo eso. Acuérdese que todos somos humanos. Si uno se mete con una persona, sabe que se lo van a sonar, pero si uno no se mete con nadie, nadie se mete con uno.
Otro día me dará su versión de la paradoja la madre de un pandillero.La falta de espacio es el mayor problema en el Centro Escolar La Campanera. El edificio es una galera larga y estrecha, con techo de lámina, pintado de azul y blanco, y situado junto a un diminuto patio sin asfalto. En la entrada ondea tímida una bandera de El Salvador, y en los muros hay letreros que dicen Deporte sí, violencia no, o Por una sociedad diferente, pero nadie los mira. Al fondo están los baños, compartidos por alumnos, alumnas y docentes, con sus paredes llenas de recordatorios entre los turnos de la mañana y de la tarde. Solo se enseña hasta octavo grado porque no hay más aulas. Después toca elegir entre dejar los estudios o jugarse la vida.
—Los matan si salen de La Campanera –me dice Alba Dinora, como quien da la hora. Me suena exagerado, pero otro día lo entenderé.
Alba Dinora es la profesora de séptimo y octavo, los grados que cursan la mayoría de los pandilleros.
—¿Usted no preferiría enseñar en otro lugar?—Pues... no. Violencia hay en todas las escuelas, y aquí los pandilleros al menos respetan nuestra autoridad. A no ser que se tenga un problema con ellos, para los que vivimos o trabajamos aquí es tranquilo.
Esta noche asesinarán a la propietaria de una tienda en el pasaje J por no pagar la renta. Por lo visto, tenía un problema.
Casi una decena de los alumnos que iniciaron curso con Alba Dinora están detenidos o han huido. Entre los que quedan sigue habiendo pandilleros, pero son más los jóvenes cuya única relación con la pandilla es haber crecido junto a ellos, en las mismas aulas, en los mismos pasajes. Sin embargo, todos ellos, pandilleros y no pandilleros, pagan un caro peaje por ser jóvenes en La Campanera: adentro de la colonia, represión; y afuera, los que se atreven a salir se exponen a que otras maras los asesinen por el simple hecho de vivir en La Campa.
Alejandro Gutman lo sabe. Él es argentino y vive en Estados Unidos, pero conoce de pandillas más que la mayoría de los tomadores de decisión. Gutman preside la ong Fútbol Forever, una de las pocas que se ha atrevido a trabajar en La Campanera. La escuela es su base. Hace exactamente una semana me llamó por teléfono para, sin pretenderlo, radiografiarme la colonia: "Son comunidades que tienen en sus entrañas pandilleros, que son en muchos casos hijos, primos, conocidos o amigos de la gente que vive allá. Y esto no significa que estén apañados o que se lucren de las fechorías, sino es lo que es, es lo que tenemos, y con lo que hay que aprender a trabajar".La escuela sintetiza la complejidad del fenómeno de las pandillas. Es un punto de encuentro que a veces también funciona como casa comunal y hasta ha servido para acoger velorios. Lo que ahí ocurre bota por tierra la recurrente y mediática teoría que dibuja La Campanera como un lugar en el que 10 mil personas viven sometidas por 20, 50 o 100 pandilleros; y que extirpado este grupo, se resolverá el problema.
Soldados patrullan en un pasaje, y un grupo de niños les observa.
***
Mañana del 5 de junio, sábado.
—¡¡¡Huevonazos!!! –grita el cabo.
Hoy hay más movimiento del habitual en La Campanera. Los militares están en campaña de fumigación, y las bombas termonebulizadoras zumban. Los policías no fumigan, pero un grupo de ellos lleva un buen rato calle arriba, calle abajo en el pick up Mazda de la corporación. Ahí suben otra vez y, al pasar sobre el primer túmulo, suenan la sirena una fracción de segundo, pero suficiente para irritar al cabo fornido que está parado sobre la acera.
—¡¡¡Huevonazos!!!
Es evidente que quería que lo escuchara. Ve que le sonrío la gracia y se anima.—Ya quisiera ver a uno con nosotros...
—¿Un pick up? –pregunto, un tanto desconcertado.
—No, a una de esas niñas. ¡Pa’ que sepan lo que es trabajar!
La Fuerza Armada y la Policía Nacional Civil conviven en La Campanera desde noviembre, pero rara vez patrullan juntos. Los que más se mueven son los soldados; chacuatetes, los llaman. Se les ve pasar a cada rato en grupos de tres o cuatro y armados con fusiles de asalto M-16 o Galil. En su afán por diferenciarse de las niñas, se aplican con mayor dureza. "Los soldados pegan más a lo loco", me dirá otro día Whisper, un pandillero. Irónicamente, en la pandilla, hombría y violencia también son valores asociados.
Delmy Chávez es una madre que ronda los 40, de carácter fuerte, y que pertenece a la directiva comunal. Es muy crítica con la labor desarrollada por la Fuerza Armada y la Policía.
—Nosotros no queremos, y ahí quiero que lo ponga usted, no queremos represión. Lo que queremos son oportunidades, talleres de formación para los jóvenes. Venga de donde venga la violencia hay que erradicarla.
En mis días en La Campanera se sucedieron los testimonios de golpizas, tratos vejatorios, registros bajo lluvia intensa, manoseo a jovencitas y sobornos protagonizados por policías y soldados. En la colonia se aplica de facto la presunción de culpabilidad, sobre todo con varones de entre 14 y 18 años. La presión es tal que algunas iglesias han tenido que extender documentos sellados para que sus jóvenes puedan salir de sus casas, algo así como un salvoconducto.
Y si esto ocurre con cualquier joven, con los pandilleros tatuados la presión es mucho mayor. Hace cuatro días, el 1 de junio, hubo operativo. Una docena de pandilleros se habían reunido en una casa, alguien dio el soplo, y las autoridades cayeron con todo en torno a las 9:30 de la mañana. Hubo macanazos, gases, puntapiés, culatazos. "Las patadas en la espinilla con las botas militares duelen", me dirá uno de los detenidos. Rompieron vidrios, puertas, un televisor y la PlayStation en la que jugaban fútbol. Los descamisaron, los tumbaron, más patadas, llegaron vecinas, madres, hermanas a hacer bulla, un bebé de 11 meses cargado por su abuela recibió en la frente un culatazo con un Galil, los cargaron en pick up y se los llevaron a la delegación de Ilopango. Los retuvieron tres días. Más patadas. A Whisper lo golpearon con unas esposas, y todavía hoy tiene la marca sanguinolenta en su omóplato derecho. Después de tres días retenidos, todos recuperaron la libertad sin cargos.
Es mediodía y la campaña de fumigación ha terminado. "Nosotros estamos aquí para apoyar", me dice satisfecho el coronel Carlos Benning Rivas, el responsable de los 400 elementos con los que el gobierno militarizó el área.
Nada es blanco o negro en La Campanera. La labor del ejército aquí es aplaudida por muchos y censurada por otros. En medio, una paleta de matices en función de la cercanía hacia los pandilleros o del respeto que uno sienta por los derechos humanos. La mayor presencia del Estado aquí ha servido, en el mejor de los casos, para sustituir una violencia por otra y para imponer la idea de que todo joven es culpable hasta que demuestre lo contrario.
Entrada la tarde, cuando ya me retiro, una pareja de policías me ordena detener el carro. Un agente joven, chele y rapado al que los pandilleros apodan Metralleta se acerca y me pide que salga del auto.
—Salga del auto, las manos a la vista.
Obedezco y entrego mis documentos.
—¿Dónde vive usted?
—En San Salvador.
—¿No vive en la Santísima Trinidad?
La tarjeta de circulación del carro conserva mi vieja dirección. Es obvio que han estado averiguando. Les explico. Metralleta me ordena abrir el maletero, revuelve todo, desmonta y saca la llanta de repuesto. Como el asunto se torna serio, termino por entregar la credencial de prensa al otro agente, que ha permanecido callado y con la mano sobre la pistola. Se retiran, me hacen esperar 12 minutos más y luego me dejan ir.
Presunción de culpabilidad, pienso.
Un grupo de niñas leen revistas, mientras unos soldados guardan puesto en uno de los pasajes de la Campanera.
I: La larga historia de El Espino
- Las Margaritas que Jason, Ulises y Misael sueñan
- Buscarse la vida entre las cloacas
- El silencio de la inseguridad
- Tres millones de mauricios
- Jóvenes excluidos en medio del fuego cruzado
- Corte considera declarar inconstitucional millonario traslado de fondos a la Presidencia
- Santos gana presidencia de Colombia con gran ventaja sobre Mockus
- Inmigración: una fuerza laboral calificada y desperdiciada
- Días de guardar con Monsiváis
- De la crisis a las reformas
- Vivir en La Campanera
- Masacre contra pasajeros
- Estas no son payasadas
Especiales - Vivir en La Campanera - ElFaro.net El Primer Periódico Digital Latinoamericano
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